I was totally ignorant when I booked my trip that I was heading to the home of ayahuasca tourism. I didn’t even know it existed. Sure enough, I get down here and that’s in the top three things I get approached about, after jungle tours and cat calls en espanol.
For the layman, what is ayahuasca?
It’s a plant that is used as a medicine by shaman in this part of the world. It gained popularity in the West in the last decade or so, and people think of as a drug, a hallucinogen, and/or a spiritual experience. The latter is because it’s almost always accompanied by a ceremony, which has been interpreted in any number of ways by ayahuasca devotees in the states.
You’ll hear people here simply refer to it as “medicine.” They drink it to connect with the natural world and clear up any number of maladies – physical, mental and spiritual. Apparently she (ayahuasca has a feminine energy) is very wise and, along with a shaman, is able to find what ails you, begin a healing process and open up your spirit to deep insights. She also makes you vomit like crazy and have wild hallucinations.
I’m no expert, obviously. If you want to know more, here’s an article in National Geographic, the Wikipedia page, and for what it’s worth, the Ayahuasca Foundation. (These are especially for you, mom. 😉
The point is, opportunities abound to try it.
My first day here, I ran into Peter Gorman, the journalist who introduced it to the outside world back in the 80’s via a cover story for High Times. He since became the Editor-in-Chief of the marijuana-advocating magazine, and runs occasional 9-day tours down here in Peru. We talked for about 3 hours, during which he offered me a spot free of charge if, as he suspects, one of the people on his sold-out tour doesn’t show. (The regular price: $1800.)
Yesterday, I got to chatting with two people who swear by The Temple of the Way of the Light, one of the most well-known ayahuasca organizations/destinations. (Think hippie meets Burning Man meets really high end spa getaway.) It’s led by female tribal shamans and a gringo who studied with natives. The retreat lasts for 12 days, during which there are 7 ceremonies, nourishing meals, massage and other medicinal treatments. Sounds beautiful, but the vibe just doesn’t feel right. The sense I get is that it’s too feminine and woo-woo for me. (And expensive, also at $1800.)
However, there was a good reminder from the two people I met: they urged me to just go with my gut and let it be the guide to what’s right for me.
Today I made a request of the Universe that I be introduced to the right person. At the end of the day as I was heading back to my hotel, I passed by the Karma Cafe, a watering hole for gringos and friends. I had already spent most of the afternoon there, so I really didn’t feel like going in, but I had a sense I might meet someone there. I went inside and wound up asking if they had chocolate cake. “No,” the waitress said, “but she has chocolate.” She pointed to a curly-haired girl who had smiled at me as I walked by. We chatted and I bought chocolate, then got to talking to the girl she was sitting with.
It turned out that the girl, Nicole, is from New York and has been studying plant-based healing with a shaman not far from Iquitos. She strikes me as a lovely person, the shaman (a woman) sounds very wise and full of light, and she holds ceremonies twice a week – no extended retreat or reservations required. And they don’t even get close to breaking the bank.
It’s Sunday now. The next one is on Tuesday. It would involve spending the night at her place out in the jungle, and having breakfast and lunch there the next day, which happens to be the 4th of July. As some of those who know me know, that’s a very special day for me. It’s my “Independence Day.” It’s the day I moved to New York, the day I started my life in San Francisco, and the day I first experienced having a community in L.A. It’s also the day that I swore I wouldn’t spend in L.A. this year – part of the reason why I left my job when I did. The last two years have been anti-climactic and I refused to spend another one without a memorable, meaningful experience. This would certainly take care of that.
I came down here not searching for anything, but rather being open to what comes (and feels right in my gut). There aren’t any issues that are weighing on me heavily, but this could bring insights or healing in areas that I haven’t even thought of. Bare minimum, at least it would make for an interesting story. Lord knows how I love those. 😉
Hmmm… All signs point in one direction.
Looks like I’m going.
